Lost Marble Brewing Company

Vermont ranks first in breweries per capita, according to The Brewers Association. After rocketing from 20 breweries in 2011 to over 60 in 2018, the number now has levelled off to around 80 in the state, producing 21.8 gallons of beer per adult (also first in the nation--or last if you’re in the Temperance Union). In short, Vermont breweries are conjuring up almost half a pint of beer per day for every man, woman and child in the state.  Four year olds are not drinking their share, and neither is Aunt Mildred.

 

And now the newly opened Lost Marble Brewing Company is adding to the total.  

 

Clearly,  someone needs to drink beer.  We, dedicated reviewers--my friend Kendra and I-- have stepped forward.

 

Named to suggest the history of quarrying in the area,  Lost Marble is an expansive angular structure,  fronted by a sweep of concrete fit for outdoor carousing around a firepit. There’s something wide and quarry-like in the whole operation. Plenty of room for kids to burn off energy outside. The architecture embraces a clean, modern aesthetic.  

 

Enter the brewpub and expanse greets you.  You can drive a John Deere right in.  Plenty of room for wheelchairs and strollers. (And, yes, this is a brewpub with a kids’ menu.)  

 

The inside is dominated by a glass-enclosed beer-making operation--with a gleaming steel fermenter and five holding tanks.  All the beer at Lost Marbles’ 14 taps comes from these tanks.  Put another way: Lost Marble sells only its own beer. 

 

Since it has been open only weeks, it is not at full capacity.  Currently it has six beers on tap.  Darker beers are on the way for darkening days.  

 

Brewmaster Shawn Kerr brings 20 years of brewing experience to the job.  He is also cellarman and brew janitor--a one person operation--no mean task overseeing a 10 barrel brew house.  He started out brewing beer in his garage in Buffalo and most recently worked at Bolton Landing Brewing. Here, he’s starting out with “no weird beers,” he says with a laugh.  He’s been pleasantly surprised that Marble Dust seems to be the favorite to date; he had thought the dolcita hops used in Lost and Found would have given it the edge. Overall, he’s happy with the reception customers are having to his beer. 

 

He’s launched Lost Marble with traditional styles, with a West Coast pale ale and  a Czech pilsner soon to appear. Stouts, including First Frost, an oatmeal stout, will appear after Thanksgiving. Going forward, he’s willing to experiment and see what Manchester beer people are drawn to.  

 

Shawn notes that the town’s lengthy approval process has ensured that the brewery has “an extremely low environmental impact.”  Spent grains, for example, are first stored in an underground tank and then transported to North Meadow Farms to be used as fertilizer.  He believes that having a brewpub in Manchester already is drawing people from Albany and surrounding areas, and beer tourism (a thing, apparently) will draw more, meaning visits to not just Lost Marble, but other spots in town.  

 

But now: the tasting! The friendly staff pours us out glasses of beer on tap. (You can order a flight of four.) Kendra and I have lined up our improvised flight of six.  We sip, nod, smile.  Food arrives.  It awaits. We keep sipping.

 

Our verdict: For Northshire people waiting for locally brewed beer, your moment has arrived.  Lost Marble is worth a visit, for the beer alone.  

 

IPAs too hoppy for you?  Try these IPAs.  Yes, the hop flavor is there, but it doesn’t slap you like a flounder in the face.  

 

Here’s our take on each one, roughly in order of lightest to heaviest.

 

1. Backcountry Gold (American Golden Ale--4.8%):  smooth, softly malty, dangerously drinkable.

2. Lost and Found (Dolcita: Hazy IPA--6.8%):  Dolcita is a new hop, bright and slightly sweet.  The hop profile emerges here, woven with citrus.

3. Marble Dust (Hazy IPA--6.6%): This was Kendra’s favorite.  A little hoppier and citrusy, but still smooth and well-integrated flavors.

4. Summit Haze (Hazy DIPA--8.5%): Again, a bit hoppier, but neither the hops nor the alcohol jump out.  Rather, this has a full integrated flavor of hops, citrus and malt--enjoyable alone or with food. For the IPA sceptic (me), this was a pleasant surprise.

5. Cosmic Bloom (Fruited Cream Ale--5%): For us, this was a cosmic bummer.  The fruit was muted, the mouthfeel and aftertaste flat.

6. Dancing Bear (American Brown Ale--5.5%):  Rich, malty, and nutty, Dancing Bear  bodes well for the coming winter beers, especially since Shawn says this is the first brown he’s made in 20 years.

 

And--good news-- you can grab cans of Lost Marble beer to go from the side fridge. Other merch available if you want to proclaim your allegiance.

 

Our recommendation for food: go with the chicken sandwich. The Quarry Clucker was crunchy, nicely spiced, accompanied by tasty fries, moderately crispy.  Live on the edge and ask for the blue cheese sauce for dipping (sandwich or fries--why not?). 

 

 Note: Since we were there for lunch, we couldn’t sample the burger, or salmon (from the local, heralded Earth and Sea Market).  Those seem promising options for dinner to complement the beer. A subsequent visit for dinner revealed that Short-Ribbed Chili was yummy--tender beef with a tomatoey-cheesy sauce, and the fried pickles were tasty--salty, not too vinegary, accompanied by a “dill goat cheese ranch,” not too caprine (ok, yes, that’s just a fancy word for pertaining to goat, goaty). 

 

And if you’re a non-beer person, dragged here by beer-centrics, you can survive by drinking cider or wine. Shawn Kerr also has plans for a fruit seltzer.

 

At just a couple of weeks old, Lost Marble is taking impressive first steps.  The staff is friendly and knowledgeable (not easy in staff-deprived Vermont).  After a beer or two, ask questions, engage them.  You’ll have an experience.

 

There may come a day when Lost Marble Brewing Company can take its place in the brew hall pantheon of Treehouse or Hill Farmstead Brewery.  For now, locals can take pride in having a spot--finally!-- for tasty hometown beer.